Thursday, December 17, 2009

We're coming to America!

Well, Pöchlarn has treated us well, but we're ready to be back in the USA. With our first snowfall on Sunday and a few stray flakes every day since then, we're starting to get the Christmas itch.

Tomorrow we'll celebrate an early Christmas with Elsa and Josef followed by Michael's choir concert in the Vienna City Hall on Saturday. Sunday morning, we're off to Amsterdam and then it's back to home-sweet-home. It will be strange to return after just 10 short days in the US, but our life is here now for another 5 months. If all goes well, and we think it should, I will also be working as an English teaching assistant during the spring semester. It makes coming back better knowing we'll both have renewed energy and purpose. There's much still to see and do in Österreich!

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Random sightings or experiences


Below is an assortment of random sightings and experiences from the past couple weeks. I hope you enjoy them. They are listed in no particular order.
  • Michael and I didn't buy a real Christmas tree. Instead we cut some branches from the sickly looking evergreens propped up all over Pöchlarn and made our own. Ours definitely looks better than the trees on the street.
  • We picked up that little pumpkin in the background at the beginning of October. We found it in a field on our bike ride back from Baumaxx (Austrian equivalent to Lowe's) and it was completely green. Two months later it's turning orange!
  • I finally got my chocolate crepe fix at one the many Viennese Christmas markets.
  • Last weekend we bought a candy bar out of a vending machine in Vienna. We put in exact change so I wasn't expecting anything in return. I usually check the coin return anyway though because you never know. And guess what?! 80 cents was in there!
  • We were shopping for salad dressing at Spar and one of our choices was "Thousand Islands" - Islands with an "s". Haha!
  • Spare ribs anyone? Elsa and Josef made sure we don't turn into spare ribs by taking us out to eat at this delicious restaurant in Vienna.



  • Today they were doing some statue work outside. One man working, five men watching and a one free-swinging bishop. Amen to that.

Friday, December 4, 2009

Chickens

I have a couple things to say about chickens - yes, the animal. In small towns in Austria, it's not uncommon to see chickens running around people's yards. I'll be walking by houses in Wieselburg and all of the sudden hear clucking and other chicken noises coming from behind the fence. One house by Michael's school had five or so running around the yard. They were running by the children's play equipment and everywhere. It's so funny to see. I laugh every time.

Secondly, in regards to eating chicken - up until a couple weeks ago, I thought we had been buying chicken from Spar. The meat looks like chicken, it's packaged the same as chicken would be packaged and it has the same pink color. Heck, it even tastes like chicken when you cook it! However, much to my surprise, it turns out we've been eating turkey all along! It's not like turkey and chicken are that different when it gets down to it, but my turkey at Thanksgiving looks quite different that the turkey I buy at Spar. I think we've determined the difference between turkey and chicken is that the turkey breasts are thicker than the chicken breasts, but that seems to be the only real difference. I've been resistant to acknowledging this fact and in my head, continue to shop for and eat chicken when in fact I now know it's the other, other white meat.

Lastly, all of the chicken eggs here are brown and stamped. My mom pointed this out to me.
I guess I'm not that observant.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Ich lerne Deutsch

So we've been in Austria a little more than two months now and I'm happy to report a noticeable improvement in my German (or Cheeehrman, as they pronounce it in English). I can understand more than I can say, but my conversational skills are also improving. How have I been learning, you may be asking yourself? Well, let me tell you.

Method #1: Weekly Deutschkurs at the Volkshochschule in Amstetten

Every Wednesday evening, I ride the train 20 minutes to Amstetten where I take a German class for foreigners. It's organized through what could be the equivalent of an Adult/Community Ed course in the US. There are only four of us in the class, and we're quite a diverse group. First we have Raja (I have no idea how to spell her name). I think she's from Serbia but has been living in Austria for several years. She speaks fluently but took the course to improve her grammar. She's about 35 and has a 5 year old son. Then we have Gabul (I have no idea how to spell his name). Gabul is from Hungary. He's probably in his mid-20's. That's about all I know about him. Last but not least we have Nabathu (I really have no idea how to spell his name). Nabathu's in his 20's and from what I can tell, he's from Thailand, but I have no idea why he's in Austria. I think he's living with a family here, but his German is far from stellar. He's a mystery I'll try to solve before the course ends.

To add to the mix, our instructor is from Romania. Her name is Christina. She also speaks English but fortunately she doesn't use it too much with me in class. Her German is a little bit difficult to understand at times because she speaks softly, but my ear has improved greatly over the weeks. Needless to say, we're an interesting group with varying levels of German. The course has been helpful, but I won't jump to sign up for it again.

Method #2: Coffee with Elsa

I've been really lucky to find my own personal tutor (aside from Michael, of course). Elsa and Josef live in Wieselburg, they're in their 50's (ok, Josef just turned 60) and have been so welcoming to us. We've adopted them as our Austrian parents and have lunch with them several times per week. Josef is also a teacher at Michael's school and Elsa is a teacher in Amstetten. She just had major back surgery though so she isn't teaching this year and has plenty of time to teach me German and for me to teach her English. It usually seems like we end up speaking more German than English, but that's ok. It's been really helpful for me to force myself to speak more German. Sometimes we do grammar exercises and other times we just talk. Knowing I will be meeting with her keeps me accountable and motivates me to keep learning German. Hopefully one day I will be able to hold normal conversations auf Deutsch.

Method #3: On my own

This is self explanatory. I use books, the internet, Rosetta Stone, Michael, etc. As mentioned in Method #2, meeting with Elsa and Josef keeps me accountable and is one of the reasons for Method #3.

So that's the story. Hopefully by May I'll be fluent.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

ÖBB

The ÖBB is the Austrian National Railway system. It's efficient, modern and convenient. From a customer's stand point, I'd say the employees generally seem to be satisfied with their work. I rarely encounter a crabby ticket controller.

One thing I haven't figured out though is the job function of the mysterious station master. What exactly does he do? (This post will soon be updated with a photo of so called train master)

At the smaller stations, the station master will sit inside some mysterious office doing who knows what. From time to time, he will mumble something over the loudspeaker, usually about a delay. Then, as soon as a train approaches, he will walk outside, put a little hat on, watch the train go by, take his hat off and go back inside. Why is this hat so critical? More importantly, why does he put it on only when he goes outside? This is a mystery to me, but it makes me laugh.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Luxuries I wish I had

Some days you just need to vent. Today is one of them for me. Before making too pessimistic of a blog entry, however, I’d like to preface it by sharing with you the luxuries I'm happy I have here in Pöchlarn. First and foremost would be the internet and cell phone. Following close after would be a washing machine (even if it’s an old clunker) tables and chairs, pots and pans, a bed, functioning heat, a shower with good pressure, and a pretty sweet bike called “the Panther.” I didn’t name it, but I kind of wish I had. Then I could say I named my bike “the Panther.” My bike in the US was a Huffy, not nearly as cool.

On a side note, I left “the Panther” at the train station one weekend while traveling. This was Halloween weekend; perhaps it makes a difference. I’m always a little nervous when we return because I’m never quite sure if my bike will still be there. So far it always has been. That’s the good news. The bad news is that on this such weekend I was welcomed back to find my seat and handle bars covered in blue toothpaste! Ha!

I’m thinking it could have been a Halloween prank because I saw silly string elsewhere throughout the city, but regardless, it was a pretty good prank. It didn’t even bother me because I was so impressed by the guilty party’s ingenuity. I did end up walking my bike home only because I didn’t want a blue butt, but that was fine. Michael lucked out; he had left his bike at home, which, by the way, does not have a cool name like “the Panther.”

But back to my story about luxuries, or lack thereof. Of course, when living in another culture, the differences always seem to make themselves most apparent and we tend to overlook the similarities, at least at first. Truly, not having these luxuries really hasn’t been a bother, but some days I wish I could just throw my dishes in a machine or tumble dry my towels so they’re soft and fluffy.

This list is not all inclusive, but I think it covers most of my grievances for today. I try to be resourceful with the things we have and not focus on what we don’t. Living in Austria is not like living in a Third World Country. We have everything we need. That’s why I call them luxuries. Here goes…

Luxuries I wish I had:

  • Garbage disposal – instead we have this little tray covering the drain that traps everything from the tiniest grain of rice to leftover chunks of vegetables, meat, etc. The problem is if the tray is full, water can’t drain so you end up with a backlog of very small foot particles that are too large to go down the drain. This is where a disposal would come in handy.
  • Dryer - you'd tire of wearing crunchy underwear too!
  • Dish washer – even though we only have a few plates, bowls and cooking ware, we still have to do the dishes several times a day. It can get to be a real drag.
  • Non-smoking restaurants – Austria is a little behind the game in my opinion. In this country, a person can smoke just about anywhere he or she pleases it seems. This includes restaurants and cafes. Usually going out for a cup of coffee or dinner is enjoyable. Here you walk into a room of haze and walk out smelling like an ash tray. They do have non-smoking tables, but those are right next to the smoking tables. Does that make sense?
  • Screens on our windows – I’m not sure why they don’t have screens on their windows here in Austria. I know it's hard to believe, but there are bugs here that will enter your apartment if you leave the windows open (and even if you don't they still come in). This isn’t so much a problem now that it’s colder, but it was a major problem for me a few months ago. The mosquitoes are the size of small birds here. I’m serious. They bite me and then the bite swells to the size of a dime and itches like crazy. Some bite marks are still lingering on my skin if you want proof. Here is also a photo of a mosquito I just killed so you can see what I'm talking about.
  • TV – I don’t really need or want a TV but I’m on a roll and thought I better put it on the list just for good measure. We watch movies on our computers so a TV really isn’t critical, but who doesn’t like to turn on the tube every now and then?

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Ich bin Lehrerin!

It's true, I officially have an unofficial job as an English teaching assistant!


Today was my first full day of lessons at the high school in Amstetten (pictured above). It was quite an experience working with students of varying levels and ages, as well as with those that like to talk and with those that are mute. For never having taught a class before, I'd say the day went pretty well. I taught lessons to five different classes and covered topics of US media, our political system/President Obama, current fashion trends among teenagers, and the US school system. Because the Austrian school system is quite different than ours, it's interesting to compare and contrast the two. To be honest, I still don't completely understand the Austrian system, but I'm learning. To put it simply, they have more specialized, technical training in some high schools compared to the more general courses everyone takes in the US. They also have multiple high school tracks that students can take which complicates matters even more.

In general the students were inquisitive and, after some prodding, willingly participated. It's weird, but the younger students tended to participate more than the older students, who should feel more comfortable speaking English since they've been taking classes longer. The most commonly asked question they had for me: Do students in the US wear uniforms? I didn't think it was that common, but apparently it is in the movies because that's where they gain a lot of their insight about the US.




Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Munich

Admittedly, I've been slacking with my blog posts, so now I will make it up with an impressive entry on Munich. Well, I'm not sure that the entry will be that impressive, but Michael and I were sure impressed with the city.

We arrived Friday night with enough time to visit the Hofbräuhaus with my parents before they flew home Saturday morning. We had some schnitzel, sausage, strudel and not to mention, beer, before calling it a night.

On Saturday, we spent some time leisurely exploring the city before joining up with a free walking tour. We decided if the tour was lame, we could always leave. Turns out the tour was far from lame, in fact, we'd both consider it the highlight of our trip. Our guide, Dominik, was extremely animated but also down to earth. He explained the history, culture and great events that took place in Munich while walking past the exact buildings where these historical events took place. Never once during our three-hour tour were we bored or uninterested.

Our tour started at Marienplatz in front of the new city hall (at left), not to be confused with the old city hall (below).
The new city hall is just 100 years old, but it was built in a gothic style to give the impression that it's much older than it really is. We continued to walk through history starting with the Church of Our Lady whose two towers were spared, although damaged, during WWII because they were used as navigational devices (in lieu of a GPS). We continued walking through old and new parts of the city, including the ritzy Maximilianstrasse with designer shops, luxury hotels and fancy cars lining the street. We decided to pass up the 15 Euro shot of espresso.


On Sunday, we finally had a sunny day! We took full advantage by being outside nearly all day. We started by walking to Schloss Nymphenburg, which was the main summer residence of Bavaria rulers dating back to 1675.

We then made our way to Olympic Park, home of the 1972 games, before enjoying the fall colors at the hugely impressive English Garden.


















































Of course, no trip to Munich is complete without drinking a couple beers. We ended our stay in Munich with a visit to the Augustiner Bräuhaus. They've been around since 1328; I think it's safe to say they've perfected their art.






Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Yooopi!? Was ist Yooopi!?

Yooopi! Yooopi! Say it with me, it's so much fun. Yoooooooopi!



Yooopi! is our incredibly cheap "Handy" company. In layman's terms, a Handy is a cell phone. To get set up with Yooopi! (yes, the exclamation point is part of the name), we had to buy a 5 EUR SIM card. That's all. 5 EUR and then we have Yooopi! and a few minutes of free call time. To call the U.S. it's 3 or 4 cents a minute. To call Austria, it's 5 cents a minute. Yooopi! to Yooopi! is supposedly free. And if you add minutes ("guthaben") on a Friday, you get 100 free weekend minutes. What could be better? I love Yooopi! Perhaps it's a little weird that none of the Austrians we've talked to have heard of Yooopi! but it seems to work fine for us.

Yesss! Yesss! Say it with me, it's so much fun. Yesss!

Yesss! is our not-so-incredibly, but still quite cheap internet company. We each bought sticks that allow us to access the internet anywhere in Austria. It's another pay as you go deal. I love Yesss! (and yes, the exclamation point is also part of the name).

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

The Spar Experience


I'd like to invite you to share with us in "the Spar experience." Michael and I are trying our best to fit in with the locals, but we're not quite there yet. I'd like to think we're getting a little better every day, but the simple task of grocery shopping is not always as easy as it seems.

We tend to make our daily run to Spar around 5 in the evening. Because the store is only a short walk from our apartment, we make frequent trips, as most Austrians do. Bear in mind, that this little Spar is about a fourth of the size of your traditional U.S. grocery store so even if we bought out the entire store, we wouldn't have much. We also have to carry it all home, which is another reason we don't buy too much in any one shot. Actually, it's quite nice that the store is small because it eliminates any decisions we need to make about which brand to buy, etc. I once read a book called "The Paradox of Choice." It talks about how we have too much choice in our society and how it can actually be debilitating because we are overwhelmed with choice. I agree. Simpler is better.

We start outside the store by "buying" our grocery cart. You need to stick in a coin to unlock a cart. You get the coin back when you return the cart. Then we proceed to produce. They have your basic fruits and vegies, but you don't have to deal with the choice of organic vs. regular on every single item. Yes, they have the "bio" product for some items, but that's it. Two choices and you're done. Also, when you buy something in the produce section, you have to weigh it yourself and print out a sticky label with the cost so they can scan at the register.

Dairy is similar to the U.S. except for the size of containers/packages you buy. The largest milk we can buy is one liter. We buy half-fat milk which is 1,8% fat. Skim truly will taste like water when we get back home. The deli and bakery sections take up the back wall. This is an intimidating section for me because you have to ask for the food you want. Add to that, the food is measured in kilograms so I have no idea what to ask for or how much I will get. I let Michael do the talking...and the math.

Some staples in our kitchen include pasta, rice and these semmel rolls that Austrians are fond of. One thing I like about the Austrians is that they don't mess around with packaging or try to skimp out on giving the consumer a full box. When we buy a box of noodles, it lasts us a good 3 or 4 meals. In the U.S., one box would feed us only a meal and a half or 2 at the most. Time and again, I'll be pleasantly surprised when I open a box of tea, cereal, rice, you name it, and it's full! - unlike the U.S. where the package is inevitably half empty.

One of the first times I went to Spar, I spent a good hour in the store walking up and down every aisle examining the food and trying to determine what was what. The more I become familiar with it, the more I realize they have most of the same products we have back home, including chicken breast which caused me momentary panic because I couldn't find it for the first week. We tend to cook most of the same things we cook back home, but we also have to work with what they have here. We've had some fun trying to cook more Austrian dishes, but last night we caved in and made Mexican. It took some improvising though since they don't have black beans, enchilada sauce or green chilies. There was a small 2 feet by 2 feet section with tortillas, taco sauce, taco seasoning and chips. We definitely paid a premium on the Mexican fare, but it was worth the splurge.

Last but not least comes the checkout. This is truly the most stressful time of all and you will soon see why. Normally they have two or three registers open at a time and there is always a line. The line moves quickly, however, as most people only buy a handful of things at a time. There is this one older woman I always see in the checkout line (ok, I've only seen her twice, but I like to make a good story). She always buys just one or two things and then gets a few cans of beer just for good measure, haha! Seriously, she throws down two beers when she checks out! Of course, anyone can buy beer in the grocery store. It's cheaper than water. You can also buy Jaegermeister in the checkout aisle. It's right next to the gum and candy. Then you walk out to the parking lot and see teenagers drinking beer and smoking at 4 or 5 in the afternoon. It's normal I guess.

Anyway, back to the stressful checkout situation. Michael and I are getting more efficient, but it definitely takes the two of us to make it happen. Before the cashier starts scanning our items, she says "Grüß Gott", we respond and then she begins. Scan, scan, scan, scan, scan. Michael waits on the other side and quickly bags. There's only room for one customer's groceries at a time so there's pressure to hurry with the bagging. I try to help with a second bag so we can keep pace with the cashier. We reuse the bags we bought on our first trip to Spar. If you don't have a bag, you buy one for 20 cents. Inevitably she's done scanning before we're done bagging and she calls out the price. I fumble through the coin purse looking for exact change while Michael dishes out the bills. Our pulses have quickened as we try to hurry to find the correct change. Sometimes we just hand the bill and deal with the large amount of coins that come back to us. We're fumbling with the change and receipt, not to mention the unbagged groceries we're awkwardly carrying out of the store trying to bag as we walk just so we can get the heck out of there. We walk out the store, take a deep breath and laugh at the awkwardness that just took place. How do the Austrians do it with such grace and ease? Michael and I both usually work up a sweat as we try to make it through the checkout gauntlet.

After catching our breath, we return our cart, collect our coin and walk home. Time for dinner. Amen.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Apples and Pears and Grapes, Oh MY!

October 8, 2009.

What a day! Michael and I spent a good part of Thursday - his day off ;) exploring our new hood on bike. It's hard to beat a beautiful fall day riding bikes down the Danube. I say down in the literal sense as we only had one hill to climb along our entire three plus hour journey from Melk to Krems an der Donau.

Because we were up for a bit of a biking adventure, we decided we needed to get some decent bikes for the trek. The two our landlord gave us only have one gear and pedal breaks. Needless to say, they're pretty rickety.
I think mine might actually be better suited for a 10-year old, but I can't complain. They get us from point A to B, albeit a close A to B distance.

We rented some sturdier bikes (with gears!) in Melk and were off! Melk is most famously known for its Benedictine Monastery, which is an ideal starting point for a Bennie and a Johnnie with our Benedictine ties.

Below is a brief photo tour featuring some of the highlights of our trip. We pedaled through vineyards, upon vineyards, upon vineyards with apple trees and pear trees thrown in there for good measure. I have never seen so many apples, grapes and pears in all my life.















For a mid-afternoon lunch break, we stopped at one of the 30 or so heurigen (wine taverns) dotting the south side of the Donauradweg (Danube bike trail). These wine taverns offer pretty unbelievable deals with substantial meals starting at 2 or 3 Euros and a glass of wine for only 1,20! Our tavern of choice, Weidinger Wachau, was across the river from Durnstein. See Michael posed below.












We hitched a ride on the train back to Melk, catching it with no time to spare. Perfect timing since the next train didn't come for another two hours. All in a day's work, as they say.










Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Die Waschmaschine

Victory! We have a washing machine and it works! The “Installateur” (plumber) came this morning and hooked us up. While Michael was hard at work in Wieselburg, I held down the fort in Pӧchlarn and had quite the German-speaking day.

Our landlord and plumber arrived promptly 40 minutes late and asked me something to the effect of, “How are you?” I froze. Literally, did not move. My mouth hung open as if it wanted to say something but couldn’t. “Ich kann kein Deutsch.” That was my practiced phrase from the night before. Michael assured me this would work. I don’t think it did. They went on speaking to me with their heavy accents waiting for me to respond. Regardless, a bunch of hand motions, pointing and turning of knobs later, I’m in business. Or so I thought.

As you can see from the image at left, the machine has a series of wash cycles. Hot, cold, normal, delicates – too many choices! Whatever, I thought, I’ll add some soap, push some buttons and give it a go. I tested the first load with some towels to make sure the starting, stopping and spinning were all functional. Who knew watching a machine go round and round could be so much fun? Everything seemed to be in working order so I went back to work.

Then, WHOOSH, WHOOSH, WHOOSH, WHAAM, RUMBLE, RUMBLE, ROAR! I heard a bunch of crazy, somewhat disturbing noises and thought for sure the machine was going to take off for space. Rest assured, it was just the final spin cycle, but holy crap I was a little scared!

Monday, October 5, 2009

Thӧrringplatz 7

The cobwebs have been cleaned, the spiders are dead, and our apartment is finally shaping up! Life is good here at Thӧrringplatz 7! At a quaint 37 meters squared, we’re snug but comfortable. Our second floor apartment overlooks the main square of Pӧchlarn, which includes two cafes, a couple shops and a hair salon. Just around the corner are the church, bank and bakery. Were in good company!



















To the north of our apartment flows the Danube in all its glory. With bike trails on both sides of the river, we can take an easy stroll or go for a long run or bike trip any time wed like. The trails are well-maintained and stretch more than 200 miles across Austria. Were just a few kilometers outside of the Wachau region, which, according to Lonely Planet, is
considered Austrias most spectacular section of the Danube. In 2000, it became a Unesco World Heritage site due to its harmonious blend of natural and cultural beauty.


















Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Hiking at Ebensee


We spent our first weekend in Austria doing what Austrians do: hiking. Now, I have gone on hikes before and would consider myself a “sportiv” person, but hiking in Austria is NOT the same thing as any hiking I’ve ever done before! In this land where Austrians are born with hiking boots on their feet, I think I was biting off a bit more than I could chew when I agreed to the hiking tour.

We arrived in Ebensee Saturday afternoon and spent the evening playing Frisbee and grilling brats. Ebensee is a small town on Lake Traunsee and is pretty much as picturesque as it gets. A friend of Matthias’ organized the trip. It’s an annual thing they do every fall. There were about 15 of us up for the challenge. As I sat by the grill Saturday night, once again observing, the whole experience seemed oddly familiar. Here I was surrounded by a group of young people, grilling the same kind of food we’d grill in the US and making the same jokes my friends would make in the US. It was comforting and a great welcome to Austria.

At 7:30 on Sunday morning, the rooster crowed (literally). We brushed our teeth, had some breakfast and headed out for the 8-hour hiking adventure. The weather was perfect – not a cloud in the sky. We marched single-file up, up and up! Never once was there flat ground.



It took us almost 3 hours to reach the top of the Greek Goddess trail. At times, I was climbing with hands and feet. I tried not to be offended when grandmas and grandpas passed me; rather, I was humbled. Regardless of who made it to the top first, it was an accomplishment. We ascended 3,750 feet!

We were rewarded with breathtaking views of Traunsee and the mountains surrounding us. We enjoyed a picnic lunch at the top before descending for another two hours. Michael and I were completely wiped out. Three days later, my legs are still sore.